Strategic Pathways for Fashion Brands Toward Sustainable Cotton Production
The production of raw materials contributes significantly to the fashion industry's environmental impact, accounting for about 38% of the sector’s total emissions. Each year, around 26.2 million tonnes of cotton are produced to meet the needs of textile and apparel industries, as reported by Textile Exchange, a non-profit dedicated to sustainable fibers and materials. According to Global Fashion Agenda and McKinsey & Company, the fashion industry as a whole is responsible for approximately 4% of global greenhouse gas emissions.
With growing awareness of these impacts and increasing visibility into the climate crisis, consumers are more discerning about the brands they support. Deloitte found in 2022 that 34% of consumers have boycotted certain products over ethical or environmental concerns.
In response to these concerns, the US Cotton Trust Protocol, launched in 2020, aims to revolutionize sustainable cotton production by promoting full transparency and continuous improvement across the industry. Partnering with over 700 mills and manufacturers, and 40 prominent brands such as Levi’s and Gap Inc., the Trust Protocol is setting a new benchmark for sustainable practices.
Aligned with the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), the Trust Protocol has introduced a "farm to fabric" Theory of Change—a science-based approach that includes measurable goals and feedback mechanisms. This initiative focuses on six crucial sustainability aspects: land use, soil preservation, water conservation, soil carbon levels, greenhouse gas emissions, and energy efficiency.
Through rigorous data collection and independent third-party verification, the Trust Protocol tracks sustainability progress within the US cotton industry, giving brands confidence that the cotton they source is grown with a reduced environmental footprint and lower social risk. Additionally, the Trust Protocol upholds social responsibility standards in the cotton industry, establishing criteria that support worker well-being, fair labor practices, and safe farming conditions. Only those who meet these benchmarks can become Trust Protocol members.
In alignment with the 2025 National Goals for Continuous Improvement, the Trust Protocol also works closely with growers to target ambitious objectives, including reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 39%, cutting soil loss by 50%, and lowering energy use by 15%.
To explore how the US Cotton Trust Protocol is championing transparency and sustainability, BoF speaks with Dr. Gary Adams, the Protocol’s president.
Why Is Supply Chain Transparency Becoming Increasingly Important?
In the supply chain, stakeholders are increasingly demanding transparency about the origin of fibers and the identities of companies involved at each stage of production. Governments and end consumers are holding brands and retailers accountable for maintaining sustainable standards throughout the supply chain. This pressure is conveyed from consumers to brands and retailers, who then pass it down to suppliers, eventually reaching cotton farmers.
Adopting sustainable production practices not only benefits the environment but also helps cotton growers and their partners meet the growing consumer demand for insight into how products are made. Consumers today seek more detailed information about production processes, and these sustainable methods allow cotton producers to optimize resources, from water to soil, and to manage farming operations more efficiently.
As a result, cotton producers are increasingly recognizing that, if they aim to secure a market for U.S. cotton in the future, they must demonstrate their commitment to sustainability and transparency across the supply chain. These criteria not only provide a competitive advantage but also form part of a long-term strategy to uphold the reputation of U.S. cotton.
“Farmers today realize that if they want to access the future US cotton market, they must demonstrate their commitment to supply chain transparency and sustainability”
How Is the US Cotton Trust Protocol Enabling Supply Chain Transparency?
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol was initiated in 2017 with the creation of standards and data requirements for U.S. cotton producers, aimed at establishing transparency in the supply chain. This initiative assists cotton growers in meeting the expectations of companies and consumers worldwide regarding sustainable and traceable sourcing practices.
Through the Protocol, brands and retailers have access to a transparent map of the supply chain, showing each stage and all participating entities, right back to the original U.S. cotton sources. Given that approximately 80 percent of U.S. cotton production is exported globally, this protocol includes a verification process that allows for detailed tracking of cotton as it moves through the supply chain, ensuring that every entity involved in a product's manufacture is documented.
Moreover, the Protocol seeks to educate international markets on U.S. cotton production, aiming to correct misconceptions about U.S. agriculture. For instance, of the 16,000 cotton farms across the United States, a vast majority are family-owned, reflecting a commitment to sustainable practices and responsible land management.
How Does the US Cotton Trust Protocol Work with Brands and Retailers?
The effectiveness of this program relies on its ability to address the specific needs of brands and retailers. Currently, the Trust Protocol includes 40 brand and retailer members, including prominent names such as Levi’s and Gap Inc.
As members, we not only inform them about the Protocol’s sustainability efforts but also listen closely to understand their unique requirements. This dialogue helps us identify the sustainability issues that matter most to them, any challenges they encounter, and the precise metrics or environmental indicators they prioritize. We also engage with producers to better understand the demands they receive from brands, allowing us to find collaborative solutions and provide relevant data.
Many brands and retailers have established their own sustainability goals, often with target dates for responsible sourcing. Each company may have a different set of requirements or sustainability programs, and the Trust Protocol aims to serve as a reliable resource they can turn to in meeting those objectives.
What Is the Verification Process in the US Cotton Trust Protocol?
The US Cotton Trust Protocol has a multi-level verification process to ensure accuracy and reliability. Initially, cotton growers complete a detailed questionnaire covering production processes and farm working conditions, from management practices to protective equipment and safety regulations. “We aim to capture every aspect of cotton production, down to the workers on the farms,” explains a program representative.
Next, a “desktop” verification is conducted remotely by a Trust Protocol administrator. This is followed by an on-farm inspection by Control Union Certifications, an independent third-party auditor, who reviews records and observes practices on-site. “Our goal isn’t to exclude participants but to establish a system that continuously improves the US cotton industry,” emphasizes the Trust Protocol representative.
How Does the Trust Protocol Engage with the US Cotton Farming Community?
To begin with, it's essential to secure a grower’s commitment to the time and effort needed for participation in this process, along with a willingness to share crucial data. Recognizing that ease of use is key, we’ve developed an online platform that emphasizes simplicity and accessibility, aiming to make participation as straightforward and intuitive as possible. This user-centric approach ensures that growers find the experience welcoming and manageable from the outset.
To guide them through the process, we provide comprehensive resources, including instructional videos and clear guidelines on completing questionnaires, helping them understand exactly what's required. Additionally, our scientific team carefully reviews the submitted data, identifying any unusual patterns that may necessitate follow-up checks for accuracy and quality.
We strive to create better access to the ecosystem that farmers rely on and to provide them with knowledge as well
We strive to create better access to the ecosystem that farmers rely on and to provide them with knowledge as well
Beyond these resources, we also connect growers to a wider support network, such as crop consultants, whose expertise they may independently rely on. Our objective is to broaden their access to industry professionals, creating a supportive ecosystem that fosters knowledge and skill-building. By keeping the process as seamless and efficient as possible, we hope to maintain their engagement and support their ongoing commitment to sustainable practices.
Key Focus Areas Moving Forward
Looking ahead, the Trust Protocol is committed to expanding supply chain transparency and increasing producer participation. The program’s goal is to reach 50% of US cotton production by 2025, up from its current level of around 10%. A Trust Protocol spokesperson concludes, “We see tremendous potential to enhance supply chain transparency and support brands in achieving their sustainability commitments.”
Looking for producing garment in Vietnam?
