Spring 2025 Menswear Trends: A Season of Contrasts, Creativity, and Cultural Reflection
Source: VOGUE
With just two weeks left before the next round of men’s fashion collections hits the runways, I took a moment to revisit and expand our spring menswear trends, integrating key looks from the recent ready-to-wear shows. Crafting a trend report is no small feat; it distills months of creative effort, thousands of designs, and an endless stream of front-row discussions into a coherent narrative. This season, the task proved even more challenging as designers presented us with a fascinating paradox: the interplay of grandeur and intimacy.
Grand Spectacles vs. Intimate Moments
Pharrell Williams, marking the one-year anniversary of his Louis Vuitton debut, orchestrated a show in the courtyard of the UNESCO Headquarters. It was a grand celebration of unity and human connection, a massive spectacle with a clear message of togetherness. Williams’s collection exuded a playful yet profound approach to luxury menswear, with bold colors, intricate patterns, and relaxed silhouettes that reflected his personal aesthetic while pushing the boundaries of conventional tailoring. His choice of venue, the UNESCO Headquarters, underscored the global and unifying message he wished to communicate through his designs.
In stark contrast, Kim Jones at Dior took a more intimate approach by incorporating oversized ceramic sculptures by Hylton Nel, setting the stage for a collection that blended whimsy with reflection. Jones crafted a narrative that explored friendship and authenticity, highlighted by a standout piece: a sweater embroidered with the phrase, “Dior for my real friends.” The collection featured soft, earthy tones juxtaposed with luxurious textures, creating a tactile experience that felt simultaneously nostalgic and contemporary. It was a reminder of the power of simplicity in a season that often veered toward the extravagant.
Rick Owens, known for pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion, delivered a runway experience that left the audience both awestruck and introspective. His show featured just 10 looks, each repeated 20 times, resulting in a procession of 200 models that transformed the vastness of the venue into a meditation on human connection. The repetition, while seemingly monotonous, became a commentary on the cyclical nature of relationships and human experiences. "We’re trying to offer alternatives to traditional aesthetic norms," Owens explained. "Blurring these lines might inspire people to reconsider how they treat one another." The emotional weight of the show was palpable; my seatmates were moved to tears.The Influence of Seaside Living
Amidst the chaos, Hed Mayner offered a moment of quiet reflection. His small, intimate show magnified the oversized elegance of his garments, with sweeping jackets and trousers brushing against the knees of attendees as models glided past. Grace Wales Bonner, too, captivated her audience with a tightly-packed presentation at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Her collection paid homage to the leisurely charm of seaside living—a motif echoed by Hermès in its relaxed yet refined ensembles.
The Influence of Seaside Living
Amidst the chaos, Hed Mayner offered a moment of quiet reflection. His small, intimate show magnified the oversized elegance of his garments, with sweeping jackets and trousers brushing against the knees of attendees as models glided past. The tactile quality of Mayner's pieces evoked memories of childhood comforts and timeless craftsmanship. Grace Wales Bonner, too, captivated her audience with a tightly-packed presentation at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Her collection paid homage to the leisurely charm of seaside living—a motif echoed by Hermès in its relaxed yet refined ensembles. The color palette shifted toward soft blues, sandy beiges, and warm whites, mirroring the natural hues of coastal landscapes.
This maritime theme spoke to a collective yearning for escape and relaxation in an increasingly fast-paced world. From linen suits to lightweight knits, the collections encouraged men to embrace a more laid-back, carefree approach to dressing. Accessories, too, reflected this mood, with canvas totes, woven sandals, and straw hats becoming must-have items for the season.
The Body as a Canvas
The exploration of the male form took center stage this season. Designers across Milan and Paris celebrated the human body by playing with transparency, cutouts, and provocative silhouettes. Luca Magliano embraced boldness in Milan, with designs playfully nodding to themes of cruising and sexuality. Magliano's work was a direct commentary on societal attitudes toward physicality and desire. "These aspects of identity should be acknowledged without shame or judgment,” he said, challenging long-held taboos.
The duo at Prada, Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, embraced a more relaxed silhouette compared to their previous collection's formal rigidity. Slouchy trousers and cropped tops defined their looks, shifting attention to the midriff—a newfound erogenous zone for spring 2025. The collection exuded a youthful exuberance, with vibrant hues and lightweight fabrics that encouraged wearers to move freely and confidently. Paul Mescal's appearance at Gucci, clad in short shorts and a loose, unbuttoned shirt that subtly revealed his abdomen, further cemented this trend. Loewe, Emporio Armani, and Dsquared2 joined the movement, all celebrating the carefree allure of exposed skin. Across the board, the male physique became a focal point, with designers exploring how clothes could accentuate rather than conceal.
From Classic to Playful Elegance
While fall collections earlier this year prioritized practicality and timelessness, spring introduced a more nonchalant elegance. Lemaire championed soft tailoring, emphasizing comfort without sacrificing sophistication. Their collection featured unstructured blazers, breathable fabrics, and a neutral color palette that could seamlessly transition from day to night. Ami embraced effortless sophistication, with Alexandre Mattiusi describing the collection as "sophisticated but not pretentious." His pieces balanced sharp cuts with relaxed fits, creating a wardrobe that felt accessible yet refined.
Dolce & Gabbana combined classical elements with a modern twist, incorporating unexpected textures and playful details into their traditionally elegant designs. Even ties—a classic menswear staple—underwent playful transformations. At Moschino, they appeared comically elongated, swaying dramatically as models walked the runway. JW Anderson, known for his irreverent approach to menswear, presented oversized, exaggerated versions as part of his self-described "irrational clothing" collection. "We want people to question the rules of dressing," Anderson said, emphasizing his belief that fashion should provoke curiosity and amusement.
Emotion at the Heart of Fashion
Beyond the garments themselves, emotions ran high this season. Designer Mike Amiri spoke about the power of fashion to evoke feelings: "Yes, we sell clothes, but the ultimate goal is to create emotion." His show delivered just that—a moment of joyful respite in an otherwise frenetic week. The collection balanced Amiri's signature rock-and-roll edge with softer, romantic elements like silk shirts, floral embroidery, and flowing trousers.
But perhaps the most poignant display came from Dries Van Noten. In his farewell show, Van Noten steered clear of sentimentality, choosing instead to project optimism through metallic florals and breezy fabrics. The shimmering textiles reflected light as models walked, creating a mesmerizing effect that captured the audience’s attention. The collection’s lightness carried a profound message: that fashion, when done with authenticity and vision, can transcend fleeting trends and offer a sense of purpose. The show concluded with a standing ovation, as fellow designers, industry veterans, and fans expressed their admiration for Van Noten's decades-long contribution to fashion.
This season’s collections unfolded against a backdrop of global uncertainty. With the Paris Olympics around the corner, the city was in a state of constant flux. Closed metro stations, gridlocked traffic, and heightened security measures created a palpable tension. The fashion world, too, grappled with larger existential questions: How does one maintain creativity amidst economic challenges? What role does fashion play in addressing social and environmental concerns? Many conversations in the front rows revolved around these themes, highlighting the industry’s ongoing efforts to balance artistry with responsibility.
Explore the 11 standout menswear trends for Spring 2025, featuring highlights from the latest ready-to-wear collections.
Invertebrate Tailoring
Easy Breezy
Call the Gardener
Too Many Lines Crossed
Waistland
A Classic Man
I See Paris, I See France
Untied
As the season closed, it became clear that the spring 2025 menswear collections were defined by more than just fabrics and cuts. They reflected the industry’s ongoing conversation about identity, authenticity, and emotional resonance. From grand spectacles to intimate showcases, from exposed midriffs to oversized ties, designers demonstrated that menswear continues to evolve—challenging conventions, embracing vulnerability, and, above all, sparking connection.
This season reminded us that fashion, at its best, is not merely about what we wear but about the stories we tell, the communities we build, and the emotions we share.
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